Oak Flooring – Costs and Laying Of The Popular Standard Gauges
Rustic, solid and cozy: The oak floor is again popular, bringing a touch of nostalgia into our modern living rooms. This type of soil is also classy and stylish , multi-layered solid wood ensures that the soil remains stable for several decades. The oak provides the hardest indigenous species of wood for high-quality shipyards, the years can scarcely affect such a subsoil if treated with care. The costs vary depending on the provider and the quality – whoever relocates the soil itself saves money.
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What is the price of an oak floor?
Hardwoods are generally more expensive than soft cones because they require much more time to grow and therefore have a more stable quality. These are the most important price factors:
- Pre-treatment of the wood: Pre-treated floorboards cost more than raw boards. If you purchase raw wood, you must provide for a coating, as this increases the durability of the wood. You can hardly save money by buying raw oak.
- Quality of the oak wood: The quality of the wood also plays an important role in price-fixing. Make sure that you get as much wood as possible without knots and cracks.
- Ground floor boards with or without a laying aid: Of course, you can also lay boards without a tongue and groove system on your floor, but the work is much more comfortable with a built-in laying aid. In addition, you get a sturdy toothed floor. This costs a bit more.
- Thickness of the individual boards: There are also thick and thinner boards in the ship floors, although more material is usually associated with a cost. However, remember that you can sharpen a thickly plank flooring over the decades, so that it looks like new again. The wear layer is decisive!
- Light resistance of the surface: Please also pay attention to the light resistance of the surface, because some soils bleach strongly when exposed to the sun. With a wooden floor, however, you can counteract with a high-quality surface treatment.
Price examples for your orientation
A 13 mm strong oak floor with a wear layer of 2.5 mm is already available at a price of about 20 Euro. In this case, the surface would already be painted, and a click system is also included. A second choice of flooring with similar values is already available for approx. 14 Euro per square meter, but there is the question, if you want the optical deficiencies with you.
A three-bar oak floor, also 13 mm thick, but with a wear layer of 3.6 mm and an oiled surface costs you about 35 euros per square meter. A click system is also integrated. A mat-sealed, 14.5 mm thick ship floor with a wear layer of 4 mm and click system is available at a price of about 45 euros. These costs relate to real products, but vary on a case-by-case basis, so they are only a rough guide.
Expenses for accessories and installation
If you do not want to lay your own oak floor, you will have to pay about 15 to 20 euros per square meter for your work. This is true for floor coverings with a click system, without tongue and groove it is usually more expensive.
The accessories should also be included in the invoice: Normally, you need at least a PE foil as a steam barrier, a sound insulation and countersunk head screws with dowels or
Parquet adhesive. Our tip: If you want to create a substructure first, you are still planning to make money for the lathing and possibly for a thermal insulation. This structure is particularly suitable for old buildings with uneven and non-insulated floors – but note that a height of up to 7 cm can result!
This is how you lay your oak floor in a professional manner
List of materials:
- PE film as steam brake
- sound insulation
- Wood saws (fox tail, jigsaw, circular saw)
- spirit level
- distance blocks
- Check the ground and align it accordingly. The raw soil must be completely dry and solid, and should have a flat surface.
- Now place the steam brake film of PE so that the edges overlap each by about 20 cm. Also on the walls the foil should exceed about 10 cm. On hard floors, this also results in an impact sound insulation which decouples the ship’s parquet from the ground.
- Begin by laying on a longitudinal side of the room and cut the groove directed towards the wall in the first row of the floor. Leave an expansion joint of at least 1 cm open, in large rooms it should be even more distance. Use the wooden chocks for this.
- Take the remainder of the first row to start the second row. Insert glue into the groove and carefully glue the boards together with the hammer and the wood.
- Now fill the entire room to the opposite wall. Also allow an expansion joint to be opened for further room elements so that the wood can work unhindered. Remember that a ship’s floor pattern normally means an unregulated dressing. An offset of at least 30 cm is recommended.
- Measure the width of the last row of the deck of the ship and saw it longitudinally. Glue the groove and insert the boards with the pull iron. Here again, wedges of wood secure the expansion joints. When the glue is completely dried, remove these wedges.
On heating pipes, simply cut a recess into the relevant floorboard while taking into account the expansion joint. Then open the recess to the side, lay the board and glue the second cut out puzzle piece back so that the wood runs around the pipe.
Our tip: First measure the entire room width and calculate how many rows of floorboards you have to join. If the last row becomes too narrow and thus too unstable, then make sure that the first row of boards is cut so that you get a compensation.
Alternative installation methods for the ship’s floor
Apart from the method of installation shown here, there are other possibilities to install the ship floor properly. For example, you can apply a parquet adhesive to the dry, level floor using the toothed spatula and place the individual floorboards in this adhesive bed: Some experts consider this to be a better alternative compared to gluing the tongue and groove system because the wood is more unobstructed can.
The already mentioned variant with a wooden substructure enables screwing of the floorboards to the underlying battens. This is how it works without glue or glue. If you drill the drill holes with a thin wooden drill, it reduces the risk of the board tearing at this point.